More Mohair Adventures

I finally purchased some Mohair fabric and I am ready to make my first bear. I decided to use a pattern I love for making puffy cheeked bears. I know the pattern well and chose it so I would have one less guessing thing going on. I have never worked with mohair before and so far I am finding it to be a pleasure. I am using a Cream color ( I like cream and white bears) in a medium density with a curly S finish and about 1 1/2 inch pile. Medium density means that while there is a lot of fur the background fabric is still visible. I chose my background to be the same color as the fur. The finish of the fur is really curly in a "S" wave. Very pretty. This is going to be a girl bear...

The pile length is how long the fur is in length from top to bottom.

Mohair I chose to work with for my first bear in this fabric

 When I chose my pattern I remembered a tip from Nancy Tillberg of Kran-bearies. I made the extra pattern pieces for the head, legs, arms, ears ,body, etc. That way I lay out a pattern for everything I need to cut, so I can place them and rearrange them until I find the cutting layout that will minimize the amount of fabric I use. I ended up using about 17 x 24 inches for this bear who will be about 14" tall when done. I also marked an arrow to show the direction of the fur. Took me along time to figure that out : )

Pattern pieces laid out to minimize fabric lost during cutting

 Once the pattern is placed how I want, I trace around everything working slowly and carefully with permanent marker and a very thin line from it. I cut slowly ( I think I did not breathe the whole time I cut). Cutting the backing only and not the fur was easier than the polyester faux fur I normally use- that is really dense so you have to be super careful. Good Practice for here. I used a soft champagne color of ultra suede for the paw pads and ears.

Pattern pieces traced and ready to cut.

Once the parts are all cut, I match and sew them together. This time I used a sewing machine with a 1/4 in seam allowance and a 1.5mm stitch. I made sure all openings for turning were edged with a Fray Stop adhesive just in case. Mohair frays like Tissavel fur, so this for me is necessary. I still hand stitched the head- especially the nose area to make sure I got symmetry.

The parts are very easy to turn. Here is the bear all sewn and turned.

 

My next step is to stuff and joint the bear. I am not sure of my finishing steps I want to use yet, but I know scissor and needle sculpting will be used to some degree. I always use them.



Making a cats head

I am testing a new pattern for a kitty. I do not often make cats so this is a new process for me. I decided to use a pattern where I tuck the gusset in to the side head pieces to sew it trapped between the side head, and to shorten the nose length of the gusset considerably.

cat head wrong side out

As you can see the "nose" is really short. I am also using really long fur which I plan to trim to help establish the cat cheek features.

 

Cat head turned right side out

The head looks like a fuzzy critter! But this is the head sewn and turned right side out.

Preferred polyfil for stuffing creations head only

I now stuff the head slowly, using small amounts at a time, and packing it from the nose back into the head. I will try get in as much stuffing in as I can. This does make the head very firm. I like to use this brand of fiberfil for the head as you really can get a lot more in than a silky type. I will always stuff the head of any creation first before I cut any fur to shape a face. That way I know what I am cutting rather than guessing. To make sure I do not loose any stuffing,  I now add in the neck joint. I use running stitch all around the opening and then put the joint in place. Pull the threads tight and backstitch all around the joint to make sure it really stays in place and does not pull out. You have to use really strong thread to be able to handle all that tugging, so I use upholstery thread made by Coates.

Placing joint in neck

Neck joint sewn in place

My next step is to trim the muzzle and a bit more up the nose section to help figure out where the eyes will go.

white nose tip trimmed and eyes in test eyes in place

side view of trimmed nose and test eye

The test eyes will help me figure out what size eyes to use and where I want to place them. They also help me to start the trimming of the face. I trim from the eye in a straight line down to the chin, I repeat that on the other side. I can now eyeball if I am even, or I will use a mirror to check. I hold the head up facing the mirror and I stand behind it. The mirror is great at showing if the eyes and trimming are symmetrical or not. I will now trim the one cheek and work at it until I know it is the shape I want. I go slowly and brush the fur often.

 



Left cheek done

One cheek cut facing front

 Time to cut the other cheek. I always make sure I have time to cut both cheeks at once. I will cut one and then straight away cut the other. I find that works better for me than putting it down and walking away for a bit.  Walking away seems to "disturb" my eye and I cannot cut the other cheek as well. I am in essence repeating on the other side what I have just done. I remember better- doing it right away.

Two puffy cheeks

Once I am happy with the face trimming I will sew the eyes in place. I love the look of glass eyes. I know the pupil is not truly cat shaped but the eye looks great when it is in place. I now purchase my eyes from Itercal Trading. The matching quality is better. I have had some interesting eyes show up from other suppliers that I will probably never be able to use.

Checking eyes quality- please note that these are not Intercal Trading supplied eyes

The first thing I do when I purchase a bag of eyes is pull them out and match them. When you are in the throws of creating you do not always want to stop that process to find a pair of eyes that match. As you can see from the one batch I got- the eye quality and pupil size is all over the place. They are handmade so we do allow for some discrepancy : ) Once I have my eyes picked I place them face down in a product called "sticky stuff". It is available in office supply places. It holds the eye still as I paint them.

Eyes facedown in sticky stuff

Depending on the detail and look of what I am wanting to achieve, it takes 3 layers of paint to get what I want. I will use nail polish to seal the eye when I am done.

Painting eyes

I let the eyes dry really well. There is nothing worse than setting an eye and it smudges the paint all over the fur because you did not wait long enough. I attach my eyes using sinew, waxed linen thread or sometimes on smaller eyes- dental floss.

Eye in place

My next step is to attach the ears. First though I will trim the ears to get the look I want.

Ear right side out

Ear trimmed showing back of ear

Ear trimmed showing front of ear



I sew the bottom of my ear shut before I attach it to the head. This way I know the ear will not shift and give me a strange shape as I am sewing it to the head. There is a lot of long fur I am working around and I like my ears to be symmetrically shaped.

Base of ear whip stitched shut
 

I use a long length of thread that once I have sewn the bottom of the ear shut the same length will attach the ear to the head. I attach the ear using ladder stitch. I do hold both ears up to the head to make sure I am happy with the placement and character they give before I sew them on.

Ladder stitch ear to head

I ladder stitch the front of the ear down and then the back. I make sure the corners are tucked and sewn on extra well to make sure the ear cannot be pulled off.

My cat head is not ready to be attached to the body.

 

I will finish the cat nose once the body is fully done. I will make a nose from polymer clay or needle felt one. That is a decision I make once the cat is almost done. Kind of the last thing I do besides feet/ paddy paws. Here are some other finished cat heads...

 

 



Buying Mohair for the first time

I finally had the courage to purchase some mohair and some alpaca fabric. Choosing fabric to make a teddy bear or other animal is always a daunting task. I get sticker shock quite a lot, but as I grow in skill and confidence I feel I am finally ready to make the change to the more expensive stuff. I also need the woven back as I want to needle felt the faces and the knitted back can unravel as you tend to poke at it with sharp barbs : )

I have often heard, and agree, that the final character of your bear is shaped by all the choices we make along the whole process of making that bear. And for me that starts with the fabric I choose to make my bear. I love North American Polyester Faux fur and get a great deal at Fabric.com with their fashion faux furs. Yes- I do pay more for that quality than the lower quality fabric I will get at local stores. But I make a creation I want people to appreciate and keep.
Here is an example: https://www.fabric.com/buy/239537/faux-fur-canadian-fox-fur-honey

Canadian fox fur

I would normally rush out to buy this and be in love when it came in. Now I hesitate as I want to make mohair or alpaca animals. I have to admit that the first thing that struck me was the different feel of the fabric. Mohair and Alpaca were not as soft and silky as I expected. The fur had more of a waxy feel to it. The backing was well woven though and it is great quality. I guess I am just used to the silky faux fur.

My first challenge was in understanding all that was available to me and what the terms all meant when they listed sparse, curly, matted, s finish... I ended up ordering samples from Intercal and CRS Crafts to finally get an understanding of what I was buying. Intercal were fabulous in talking to me about what was available and even pointed out about the specials on their website. A great way to get your feet wet. http://www.intercaltg.com/special/2.html
I ended up getting a 1/4 yard sampler pack of various colors and finishes and now I am ready to start making. I went for medium dense as a first try, as it is my first go at a large (meaning bigger than 6 inches) mohair bear and it seemed the dense might be a bit much thickness for my old machine to deal with.

Some things I learnt:

• Sparse: the backing will show through very clearly and has to be considered in your bear design. The backing can be the same color or a contrast to the mohair. Sparse fur gives the look of an older and much loved bear.
• Pile length: The actual length of the fur from the backing to the tip. I used to consider this with faux fur too as some have a very long guard hair that could look odd on a small bear. There are some guidelines out there as to bear size and recommended fur length but I just consider the character I am making and how that would work. 
• Color: Bears do not have to be one color and they do not have to be golden : ) In Frankfurt airport I found a lilac Steiff bear I would have loved to have bought. Never thought of lilac and cream on a bear before!
• Finishes: Mohair has several finishes such as straight, curly, tight curl, wavy antique curl (more groomed than just curly) swirly loose random curls, distressed, matted, feathered, tufted and string. I ended up getting the wavy as it appeals to me more.

Intercal website has great photos to help you understand better what you are about to purchase. Speak to the staff- they are friendly and super helpful if you explain what you are about to do. I loved dealing with them and felt confident I had ordered the right thing. Their enthusiasm was catching! I also love their quality in glass eyes.

Another spot to check out: http://www.edinburghimports.com/

I bought my first teddy pattern from them and they have a great range for that, they also offer many tips.

Attending shows

I did my first show in 10 years (maybe more) this past weekend. I am still feeling exhausted from it all. Much of the time is spent standing there and waiting for someone to walk by and maybe stop to take a look. I am always ready with a smile and a hello. I introduce myself and ask them if they have any questions about my work. I try to appear approachable and pleasant.

Eden and I at my display

After a full day of talking loudly to be heard over the music from a nearby DJ, I would be a total liar if I did not say I was exhausted, hoarse and dispirited. The venue was certainly interesting and there were some fabulous items for sale right near me. But no one really stopped. No one asked questions. A quick glance and move on. I ended up chatting to the artists on either side of me who did wonderful, creative and astonishingly interesting works. To me anyway. They also did not have many people stop. A quick glance is all we got. Seems like all the action was outside the hall we were in, and we could not really leave our stalls to go look. Well- I could not as I did not have back up, and at the back of your mind you keep thinking that the next person may stop and purchase something and what if you are not there?
I had esty seller "Surly Bunny" on one side. Check out her neat stuff: https://www.etsy.com/shop/surlybunny?page=1
Eden is getting a unicorn mask, though I may borrow it !
The other talented lady is also on etsy with "Teddies by Design": https://www.etsy.com/shop/TeddiesbyDesign

I loved the cart I had to display my work on. The lady who organized the event is an energetic and awesome person. She directed people to us, had us show our work on the stage and did a "prettiest bear" competition to draw people's attention to us. I got placed too!

My little girl bear that got placed in the in house competition

Then there is the one thing you cannot control with the show crowd that crops up. Someone's budget. Perceived value can be talked up and explained and I know what goes into making a bear. I explained, got a smile and a nod and they moved on. People were taking a business card and looking. I ended up exhausted with no sales. I think most people came by to support a fundraising event, not purchase art, designer bears or craft. I did get comments on how 'nice' my work was. I really do not like that word. "Nice". yuk. But I am glad I got some attention and great feedback. Making me rethink some of the things I make. What a great way to find out more about your target market! I do appreciate that. Another lady there sold fabric handmade bears and she seemed to be doing well. Her price point was right and people truly loved what she made. Her workmanship was superb.

I left the show having made 2 new wonderful friends from the ladies of the booths next door to me, found out about a bear makers guild in Plano, Texas and a realization that next time I need to do better homework on a show. I did end up supporting a great cause raising money for homeless children. I am glad I did that. I went in with no expectations which is good in this case. I would suggest attending a show before you just signup to sell. Go see who comes by, what there is to purchase and price points, will your work be a good fit and what the show organizers offer so you know what to bring. Shows, for me, are about making contacts, getting direct feedback from potential customers and getting people to see you in person and touch what you make. And maybe make a few sales. Nothing beats that affirmation in your skill such as someone paying you for something you made. I learnt a great deal this weekend and I am glad I went. Still exhausted : ) but knowing a lot more about myself and where I want to take my craft.